Exum Ridge is probably the second-most climbed route on the Grand. It is also one of the easiest, along with Owen-Spalding. It has four main pitches, and is rated as a 5.4. Protection is minimal, however, and exposure is also somewhat extreme. It was first summitted by Teton mountaineering guru Glenn Exum in 1958.

Directions
From the Lower Saddle follow the climbers path north up the gully past the black dike and toward "The Needle.” Pass "The Needle" on the left.

At an apparent impasse after passing a tower on the central rib that splits the two gullies descending from the Upper Saddle, and after a blocky side chute, ascend Class 3/4 rock to pass the chockstone. Cross on the chockstone to climbers right. Backtrack through a hole (Eye of the Needle) to an area where the ascent of the Central Rib can be made.

From here the starting ledge (Wall Street) can be seen on the wall above. The step around at the end of Wall Street is extremely exposed and though not especially difficult, can be quite intimidating.

After one pitch on golden rock (Golden Staircase), bear right up and under rocks (often icy) to a chute known as wind tunnel.

Above this, follow the ridge or corners to the right for several pitches until the crux slab is reached. The slab (Friction Pitch) is rated 5.4. Protection is very minimal but the first 20 feet are definitely the hardest.

Several rope lengths of easier climbing above the Friction Pitch brings one to a slanting dihedral (V Pitch) to the left of the ridge. This can be bypassed on slabs (often snow covered) to the right.

Above the V Pitch, another pitch of about 60 feet leads to the crest of the ridge at the beginning of the horizontal section. (Note, it is possible to escape the ridge at this point by traversing to the climber's left to the Owen Spalding Route.)

Follow the ridge to the summit, bypassing a vertical step on the left via a short slanting chimney and a large boulder via a cracksystem on its right face.